The Austrian wine region that rose from the ashes

Vineyard rows in the foreground overlooking a village with red-roofed houses and a church, beside a large lake. Wind turbines line the distant horizon.

In 1985, Austria’s wine industry, once the third largest in the world, was rocked by a scandal that nearly destroyed it. Millions of litres of wine were adulterated with toxic antifreeze in an effort to make it sweeter and thus more valuable. Luckily nobody died but markets collapsed. The industry underwent radical reform and has re-emerged smaller but highly respected. Many of the large industrial producers have disappeared but small, family-run wineries are thriving.

Production is focused in the east. The steep slopes of Wachau, Kamptal and Wagram are famous for their pristine whites, while further south Burgenland is known for its compelling reds, particularly in the up and coming Neusiedlersee region, just an hour from Vienna. It gets its name from Neusiedl, Europe’s largest endorheic lake and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Grapes grow on small plots alongside sunflowers, wheat and maize, cooled by winds from the lake that are key to Neusiedlersee’s terroir. Wine is made in the surrounding villages, often in cellars going back generations, now with an eye on quality and at very decent price points.

Austria's main grape varieties

Grüner veltliner is Austria’s flagship white grape, a reliable choice for crisp wines with a distinctive white pepper finish. More aromatic are gelber muskateller and welschriesling, also used for sweet wines, and while mineral-driven rieslings (no relation) tend to be found further north, Neusiedlersee’s white stars are weissburgunder (pinot blanc), grauburgunder (pinot gris) and chardonnay. Delicate, pinot noir-ish St Laurent and beefy blaufränkisch, both native varieties and still widely grown, were hybridised in the 1920s to create the more reliable and higher yielding zweigelt, now Austria’s most popular red grape and Neusiedlersee’s shining star.

What food should you pair Austrian wine with?

Zweigelt is a very crowd-pleasing wine. Generally fruit-forward with lots of ripe red and black fruit, touched with spice and herbal notes, and kept fresh with bright acidity. While the region’s game, pork and charcuterie are the classic food matches, unoaked zweigelts are really versatile: served slightly chilled in the summer they’re as good with a wiener schnitzel as with a burger or a picnic platter.

Want to stay over?

Neuseidlersee is a lovely area, not only for its wines but also as an under the radar destination for watersports, cycling and birdwatching holidays. The bustling holiday village, Weiden am See, has plenty of choice for kitesurfing, windsurfing and sailing on the lake, as well as great waterside bars and restaurants with dreamy sunset views. Nils am See, a super-luxe hotel and spa right on the water, has gorgeous rooms, a geothermal pool and all the creature comforts you’d expect. It also organises wine tastings, tours and other activities in the area. Rent an e-bike to explore the region with its comprehensive network of easy cycle paths: most wine producers welcome visitors and are very hospitable hosts. nilsamsee.at

Best Austrian wines to buy 2026

Nestor Orangewein Gelber Muskateller

Available from Good Wine Good People (£30)

This approachable, refreshing orange wine is made from fragrant yellow muscat grapes, left on their skins for 20 days and aged in old oak barrels before being bottled unfiltered. Green apples, passion fruit, lychees and tangerines with a salty, herbaceous finish. Very gluggable.

Bottle of Nestor Orangewein Gelber Muskateller 2022 orange wine from Austria.

Lentsch Zweigelt

Available from Waitrose (£10.25)

Zweigelt does particularly well in Neusiedlersee and the Lentsch family flies its flag with this great-value versatile wine. Juicy cherries and crunchy cranberries with a slightly earthy underbelly. A brilliant barbecue wine.

Bottle of Lentsch Zweigelt red wine from Austria.

Artisan Zweigelt Reserve 2020

Available from Stone, Vine & Sun (£22.95)

Franz Schneider worked as an aeronautical engineer before returning to his small family farm where he makes his top-class wines using traditional methods. Gorgeous floral nose along with forest fruits, spice, chocolate and black olives: a beautiful, mesmerising wine best served very slightly chilled.